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  On the 8th, in the Morning I recommenced my Journey for Elvas, being six leagues further and twenty-seven from Aldea Gallega. I had the satisfaction of reaching it early in the Afternoon, after having travelled over an hundred and four Miles, evincing not the smallest Vestige of Cultivation excepting in the immediate Vicinity of the different Towns. At Elvas I remained till the 10th, to enable my Servant to come up, having left him behind on the Road. I had the good fortune here to meet with a Doctor Deane, Physician to the Forces, brother to Capn. Deane of the 96th Regiment, with whom I had always lived on terms of the greatest intimacy. From Dr. Deane I experienced the most gratifying attentions, indeed he received me with a kindness I have rarely experienced on a first introduction. Elvas has long been celebrated for its great strength, or rather the Fort which commands it known by the Name of La Lippe, which is justly considered one of the most impregnable Fortifications in the world. The Aqueduct here also is a very singular Structure on an immense scale. The water is conveyed by it to the Town over a very uneven Surface for the distance of nearly a Mile. The Town itself stands high, and is remarkably strong. Like the generality of Portuguese Towns however it is filthy in the extreme, so much so that I sincerely congratulated myself I was not going to remain in it. The Convents I found generally filled with the Sick of our Army, and the numbers were truly afflicting.

  From Elvas Badajos may be most distinctly seen, and it appears to be very near; they are distant however at least twelve Miles. On the 10th I proceeded to Badajos, where I met with many of my old Friends in the 40th. The short time I had been absent from them had produced great changes, as I perceived a variety of new faces. Badajos is the Capital of the Province of Estremadura, situated on the River Guadiana, over which you pass by a Bridge of twenty-one Arches, as you enter the town from Elvas. The two Countries are separated by a Branch of this River, which is nearly dry in the Summer, and is distant about four miles from Badajos on the Elvas road. The difference between the two people at this short distance is remarkable; there is such a jealousy and even hatred existing between them, that each carefully avoids imitating the Manners and Customs of the other. On entering Badajos I was much pleased to find an air of cleanliness superior to anything I had observed in Portugal. What most particularly struck me was the vast superiority that the Spanish Women have 'over the Portuguese in Person, Air, Appearance, and Dress. The latter are in general very slovenly, while the former are particularly neat in their modes of dress, and have an inexpressible elegance and dignity in their walk which I have never seen in any other women.

  I found everything very uncertain relative to our future Movements, every Person enjoying their own private opinions. This place was Head-Quarters, Lord Wellington and the Heads of Departments residing here. The 40th Regiment the only one here, the Army being stationed in various Quarters in the different Towns in the Neighbourhood in such a manner that the whole might unite in one Day in Case of necessity.

  On the 12th an opportunity presented itself of writing to England by a Friend, of which I availed myself. Weather dreadfully hot, scarcely to be borne, even by the Inhabitants who dread it much. This Month has ever been considered here as the most unhealthy in the Year. It has given rise to an old Spanish proverb, that whoever lives out September may expect to live another Year. Diseases generally predominating are Fevers and Intermittents.

  OCTOBER

  The 1st of October.—Accts. reach us from England of the intended change of Ministers. Much anxiety of course on the part of Lord Wellington; indeed a general interest on the occasion by all parties, as our remaining here very probably depends on the Sentiments of those who may assume the Reins of Government.

  8th. Lord W. quitted Badajos for Lisbon, supposed in great measure for the purpose of being enabled sooner to receive accts. from England. The Day preceding he gave a Dinner to a Number of Spaniards of both Sexes, and in the Evening a Ball to the Garrison which was crowded almost to suffocation. I was much pleased with his manner.

  In the midst of a variety of Reports that the Army was immediately to advance towards Lisbon for the purpose of embarking for England, on the 9th the 3d Batt. 27th Regt. marched in here from Lisbon, which gave rise to the idea that we are as certainly to remain. From undoubted authority I heard that a Voluminous Report of the state of the country by the Marquis Wellesly and on which everything was likely to depend, after having been perused by Lord Wellington, was forwarded from here on the 19th ulto.

  On the 10th came in here to be quartered two Battalions of the Guards, making the Garrison to consist of four Regts. besides Artillery, & the difficulty of getting billets was so great that very serious remonstrances were obliged to be made to the Junta on the occasion, who in their turn threatened the Inhabitants with severe pains and penalties if they made any unnecessary obstruction to the accommodation of British Officers. They are evidently getting tired of us, and, tho' they have no objection to our fighting for them, they would wish the Troops to remain in the Fields during the Winter; some of them are so extremely uncivil that nothing will be sufficient but the entrance of French Troops into their Houses to convince them of their ingratitude.

  I write this on the 22nd. October, having hitherto been unable to keep a regular Journal. What I have written is chiefly from Memory aided by a very few Notes. Sickness has constantly prevailed in the Army to an alarming extent, there being seldom less than eight thousand sick on an average, of which number the Deaths have been most afflicting. The Weather still continues very hot, but the Mornings and Evenings are extremely pleasant. Lord Wellington returns this Day from Lisbon, when it is probable we may learn something of the intended future arrangements; as yet we are entirely ignorant of the State of the Continent. An Officer who came here a few days since from the French Head-Quarters states, that he was informed by the French Commandant that Peace with Austria was actually signed. Should such be the case, I think there can be no doubt but we should evacuate the Peninsula. It would be absurd in the extreme to attempt with our Numbers to oppose the undivided force of France. The Spaniards are apprehensive we shall leave them, but speak with confidence of bringing the Contest to a happy issue. For my own part I have no doubt that the French will possess all the principal Towns and Fortresses in the Kingdom, but I feel certain that they will never have undisturbed possession of them; insurrections will constantly prevail wherever the French are not in force, and that irreconcileable hatred & detestation the Spaniards have for the French will induce them to murder them whenever they can possibly effect it.

  Octr. 24. Lord Wellington did not return on the 22nd as was expected. He is still detained at Lisbon, but on what account we know not.

  Yesterday I had the satisfaction of receiving several Letters from England, a satisfaction only to be appreciated by those who are abroad like myself, and who possess Friends so valuable as mine are.

  This Day War was proclaimed with the usual formalities in the principal Streets against Denmark. The political events likely to originate from this Circumstance are, I conceive, very small.

  27th. Letters were received this Morning from Lord W. stating his intention of being here on the 29th Inst. It is certain he has been visiting various Situations in Portugal, from which it is inferred that he is about to take up positions for the defence of that Country. In the meantime we go on in the old way, continually inundated with reports which all in the end prove equally fallacious. The most Credulous I believe are now become suspecting, and even official Accounts are received with distrust.

  There is certainly a general wish throughout the Army that we may soon be ordered to England, and I am sorry to observe that near nine out of ten of all the Officers I have conversed with on the subject would hail the News of Peace being concluded between Austria and France, provided it led to that event. For my own part I have no wish to quit this Country. The weather is getting pleasanter and the number of the Sick is consequently decreasing. Time so far from hanging heavy, as most complain, appears to me to fly with u
nprecedented rapidity. It is true the Amusements are limited, but Duty, Books and Riding amply suffice to fill up every hour. In the Evening there is at the House of one of the principal Families here a Conversazione, or as it is termed in the language of this Country a Pertiglia. Hither the principal Persons of both Sexes resort, and also as many British Officers as are disposed, but as the Spanish Language is known to very few of them, and, as without that knowledge these parties are certainly very stupid, in general there are not many English Officers there. When not otherwise engaged, I generally look in; and I find that it is a very good plan to adopt in order to improve in the language. My frequent Visits, which have afforded me an opportunity of becoming acquainted with many of the Ladies of this place, have confirmed me in the superiority I have always attached to my own fair Country women over all others. From habit and bad example the women here even of the first rank have contracted an indelicacy in their ideas and conversation which would shock the most abandoned in England. Indeed public Morals in general in this Country in both Sexes are at a very low ebb, and yet in no part of the world perhaps are the forms of Religion more strictly adhered to. The Bells are constantly ringing for Church, into which crowds are as constantly entering. In the Houses of every Family you will continually hear long prayers. In the Streets even you will always observe some mark or other of Devotion. How is it then that such general licentiousness, so many thefts, &c. &c. prevail? Doubtless because though they have the form of Religion they possess not the Spirit; and for my own part I need no other proof of the fallacy and Error of the Romish Church than the conviction forced upon my mind by the Lives and Conduct of its Votaries, that it is not a Religion of the Heart. A Religious Mind cannot but feel shocked at the profane manner in which the Sabbath is observed here. It is not sufficient that Amusements are partaken of in the same manner as on other Days. Sunday is always selected as a Day on which they are pursued with unusual avidity. Neither is working, buying or selling generally abstained from. When witnessing their solemn Mummeries of a Sunday Morning during the Celebrations of Mass, with their Priests, decked out like those of Baal, performing a number of Mystical Ceremonies in the midst of Frankincense and lighted Candles, the idea of their subsequent Mode of passing the Sabbath occurs to my recollection, and I involuntarily exclaim with the Apostle— "Be not deceived; God is not mocked."

  Badajos furnishes nothing particularly worthy of observation. It abounds with Churches, and has five Convents for Friars and nine for Nuns. The Cathedral is a handsome building and has three Organs. It is profusely hung with Crimson Velvet edged with Gold Lace; in one part is affixed a List of Books prohibited to be read by the Inquisition under pain of several severe Penalties; among others I observed the letters of Lord Chesterfield and also those of Lady Mary Wortley Montague; the Religious Works of the celebrated Neckar are also among them.

  Octr. 30 Lord Wellington returned last Night, but if he brings any News it has not yet transpired. We are now a long time without Accounts from England; from whence we infer that the News brought from Talavera by Captn. Gordon relative to the Peace between Austria and France is not true, though it was published as Official in General Orders at the French Head-Quarters. On the 2nd of next month Lord Wellington goes to Seville for a few days in order to have an interview with his Brother the Marquis. Doubtless a variety of opinions will be the consequence of his undertaking this second Expedition. Seville is distant from Badajos about one hundred and twenty miles.

  NOVEMBER

  November. In consequence of a subsequent Arrangement Lord Wellington quitted us this Morning for Seville, instead of to-morrow, as was his intention. He has left an order behind him which has considerably annoyed us; viz., for the 40th Regiment to march on the 3rd. Inst. to Olivenza, a small town about four leagues distant from hence. Having formed an acquaintance with several of the most pleasant Families, we were enabled to pass our Evenings agreeably. Olivenza, I hear, does not abound with many of these Houses, and the difficulty and trouble of getting acquainted with those few is also to be surmounted. Another reason why I most prefer the place we are now in is its being Head-Quarters, by which means we get the earliest intelligence of any News there may be stirring. This being the day of All Saints has been observed here with much Solemnity. About eight in the morning I was attracted into the Convent of the Catalans by the sound of Female Voices. On entering I observed a great many women kneeling before an Altar, and really singing with considerable sweetness; soon after the Nuns entered a chapel behind, grated off from the Church, where mass is performed. As they brought in several Lights, I had an opportunity of observing their Countenances, and to my surprise I found that they were all very old women, not one of them appearing less than sixty. They seemed to be about thirty or forty in number. They performed their devotions with considerable energy assisted by a miserable old Spinnet. Several British Officers were earnestly looking thro' the bars of the grating, which did not at all appear to attract their attention. About nine High Mass was performed in the Cathedral, at which a great concourse of People attended of both Sexes. The Music consisted of a fine toned organ with several Violins & other Instruments. There was the usual Chorus assisted by some very good lay singers hired for the purpose. The selection was chiefly from Pleyel, & was really very well executed; I was much pleased with it. After Mass a Sermon was preached; my knowledge of the language was just sufficient to enable me to understand that after dwelling on the Holiness of the Saints the Preacher exhorted all to imitate them, reminding his Hearers that they had the same assistance from above, and had no greater difficulties or Passions to contend with than those whose sanctity he was recommending them to imitate. During the Service I observed much laughing & other marks of indevotion among the People, and from which the Priests themselves were by no means free.

  Novr. 8. In obedience to orders we marched to this place (Olivenza) on the 3rd. Inst. It is a neat Town formerly belonging to the Portuguese, but ceded to the Spaniards in the Peace of 1801. The inhabitants are nearly all Portuguese, and the hatred I have before mentioned to exist between the two People is here at its height. The Garrison consists of five Regiments besides Dragoons and Artillery, the whole under the command of the Honble. Majr. Genl. Cole. We are still without any accounts from England; inconsequence great fears are entertained for the safety of the Packet. The news from Lisbon reports that Buonaparté is dangerously ill at Vienna, and that the Armistice is in consequence prolonged.

  11th. The arrival of English papers of the 27th Ulto. has served to set at issue the thousand Reports and Rumours we have been lately inundated with. There appears little doubt that Peace between Austria and France is concluded, and yet the Accounts of it in the English Papers as copied from the Continental ones do not appear to be of such unequivocal testimony as to demand our unqualified belief. Unfortunately however as there is too much reason to give Credence to it, everyone is supposing what will be the Instructions to Lord Wellington in consequence. All are agreed that we must immediately evacuate the Peninsula, but the Opinions as to where the Army may afterwards be ordered are innumerable. It is very probable that the strongest Regiments will not return to England. Among these is the 40th, who are still very effective. It is however impossible to form an idea of the intentions of Government on this subject. I should not have the smallest objection to go up the Mediterranean; indeed I feel no objection to go to any part of the world, the West Indies alone excepted.

  The Accounts of Peace will doubtless considerably dishearten the Spaniards, tho' I believe they pretty generally anticipate that such a circumstance will compel us to withdraw our personal assistance.

  Lord Wellington was to arrive at Badajos from Seville last Night. It is said that the Packet has brought out to him Dispatches of the utmost importance, which may possibly •J determine the point in question. It is difficult to form an idea of what will be the Sentiments of the Spaniards, if we quit the Country; whether vexation and discontent for our not remaining to do more will not prev
ail over the gratitude they ought to feel for what we have already done. I should be sorry to think anything should beget an Animosity towards us from a People I think generally disposed to admire and esteem the English Character. It is, I believe, well ascertained that, in the different wars between England and Spain, and when the latter Country was in the closest alliance with France, an Englishman was always received with an Attention and marked Regard by the Spaniards which they never could testify towards a Frenchman; and as a proof of the high estimation Spain has always considered an alliance with England, there is an old Spanish proverb which runs thus;— "Paz con Inglaterra Y con todo el Mondo Guerra," which simply means, "Peace with England, and war with all the world."