The Journal of an Army Surgeon Page 3

  25th. Nothing particular has occurred since the last Date. There has certainly been an action in La Mancha between the French & Spanish Armies, but the result is not correctly known. Lord Wellington is at present on a shooting expedition. He has the whole of his Baggage with him, in order, it is supposed, that when he proposes moving to a greater distance it may not be suspected. There is a general rumour that the Army is about to move, but it does not appear to rest on any solid foundation.

  The weather from being intensely cold has become extremely pleasant. The Sickness in the Garrison has been and indeed still is very alarming. The number of Sick is not less than five hundred in this place alone.

  28th. Certain Accounts have reached this place of the result of the action in La Mancha. The Spaniards in killed, wounded and Prisoners have not lost less than 20,000 Men, and it appears that the remainder of their Army is nearly dispersed.

  By the arrival of the newspapers to the 15th Inst., and Accts. from apparently good Authority it seems that Ministers have determined on defending Portugal. How long we shall be able to maintain ourselves, particularly since the defeat of the Spaniards, remains to be proved. There are various opinions on the subject; that we shall ultimately be compelled to quit,I think admits of little doubt, tho' probably the approaching Season, and the difficulty of procuring Supplies may prevent the Enemy from annoying us for some time.

  DECEMBER

  December 2nd. The Spaniards do not seem to be the least dispirited at the result of the late Battle— on the contrary it appears to have roused them to fresh exertions. They deny that it was so disastrous as has been represented, and tho' they acknowledge to have lost an immense Number of Men they affirm that the loss of the French was also very great. The Marquis de la Romana is stated to have taken the Command of the La Mancha Army, and it is said that the first act of his power was the hanging of five Colonels, whether for Treason or Cowardice I have not heard. Gerona continues to hold out; and I was a few days ago assured by one of the principal Inhabitants of this place,in a manner and with a solemnity which evinced his own Credence of what he was relating, that the protracted defence of Gerona and the inability of the Enemy to conquer it were owing to the intercession of a Bishop who lived there about sixteen centuries since, and who from his uncommon Piety was justly ranked among the most eminent Saints this country had produced. He also informed me that he (my informer) was a Native of Gerona, and that he has now four Brothers residing there who have witnessed the Bishop appearing among them and stimulating them to additional exertions. He added his firm belief that Saragossa had held out so long by the aid afforded by our Lady of Pilar, tho' he could not explain how she had at length lost her interest. He was much shocked at my doubting that she had never possessed it.

  On quitting the 96th Regiment I made a promise to a Captn. Deane in it with whom I had been particularly intimate to find out if possible a Brother of his serving in this Country as Physician to the Forces. On arriving at Lisbon, I enquired for him and was informed he was at Elva?. ^n reaching the latter place I soon found him out, and GH making myself known to him was received with a kindness and warmth I had scarcely ever before experienced. I remained with him two Days during which short time from a Congeniality of Sentiment we became more intimately acquainted than is usual in so short a period. The urgent duties of war prevented us seeing one another so often as we wished. We continued however to pay reciprocal visits once a fortnight, the distance from Elvas to Badajos being not more than twelve miles. On my removal to this place it became totally out of my power to visit Elvas any more, and Dr. Deane from being equally engaged was unable to come over to Olivenza. A few days since, having occasion to send to Elvas, I wrote a Note to my Friend, and was horror-struck on the return of the Bearer to find that he was no more. He informed me that on reaching Elvas he found poor Deane very ill; that on the note being presented to him he attempted to read it but failed. He expired the following Morning, and with him as much worth as I ever knew in any individual. He was about twenty-eight years of age, intelligent in his Profession, irreproachable in conduct, and of an excellent disposition. His Physiognomy was most pleasing. His Forehead and Eyes reminded me strongly of an highly valued Friend I possess in England. While living he had engaged the esteem of all who had the happiness of his acquaintance, and since his Death the sorrow expressed for his loss loudly testifies the worth and value of his character.

  The weather is now most delightful, but the People here seem much surprised that the Rainy Season has not set in some time. Sickness still prevails in the Garrison & indeed generally throughout the Army. My time is so much engrossed by my professional duties that it is with difficulty I can steal an hour now and then to keep up my communications with my Friends in England.

  5th. A continuance of fine weather has had a most happy effect on my Sick. Those in Hospital are getting considerably better, and those out keep well. I have in consequence much less to do at present than I have had since my Arrival in this Country. I am now enabled to take long rides into the Neighbourhood, and was yesterday much gratified to find myself in a really neat and very pretty Village. It is called St. George, and has an appearance of Health, Happiness and Contentment I have seldom witnessed. It consists of two narrow Streets. Vines are made to grow over from the houses on one side to those opposite, which in the Summer most completely exclude the Rays of the Sun. There is a general Cleanliness in the whole Village which I have not before observed in this Country.

  There is a certain bustle at Head-Quarters, and some preparations are making which in the opinion of many indicate a speedy Movement. If we are about to march it is devoutly to be wished it may be before the setting in of the bad Weather.

  I had an opportunity this Afternoon of witnessing the Funeral of a Person of property. The procession consisted of the different Orders of Clergy & Friars and the male Friends of the deceased in great Numbers. The Body was conveyed in a sort of half Coffin, and was dressed in the Clothes that the deceased was in the habit of wearing when alive. During the procession there was a general Clatter of the Bells, producing the most inharmonious discord, so much that an Italian with a fine ear would have envied the Defunct his inability of hearing them. On entering the Church the Corpse was placed on a Table, when the friends arranged themselves around it, each bearing a large wax Candle. A solemn Mass is next chaunted, in which the intercession of the Virgin Mary is frequently invoked. This Mass performed they move to the Grave where the Corpse is deposited, and a Napkin being thrown over the Face the Dirt is thrown in. A similar Mass is again performed which finishes the Service. Rich and Poor are all buried within the Churches; only the wealthy however are permitted to lie near the Altar. It is never the custom to put a deceased person into a Coffin in the mode we do in England. Both Sexes are neatly dressed on their Death, and placed in a half Coffin from which they are never moved. Children are frequently put into the ground without any envelope.

  9th. From the general orders of this Day, conjecture as to moving is at an end. The Guards marched this morning from Badajos, and the different Divisions of the Army are to follow in succession. Speculation is however considerably excited as to our destination, which is kept profoundly secret. There seems no doubt that we shall in the first instance go to Abrantes, but further all is lost in uncertainty. It will be several Days before our Division moves. Most unfortunately the weather has this Day assumed a very unpromising Appearance, and we much fear that the wet Season is about to set in.

  11th. We still know nothing of our destination. It is considered very probable that we are going to the North of Portugal, as information has been received of the complete defeat of the Duke del Parque, and there is consequently no obstacle there to an irruption of the Army under Marshall Ney. The weather continues threatening, but the wet has not yet commenced.

  16th. We are still without our Route, though it is hourly expected. At present our destination is Leyria. It is not unlikely however it may [be] changed on the March. W
e have had some heavy Rains and anticipate much more. The Sick were most of them sent from hence this Morning. Many are of opinion that we are about to embark: the Spaniards and Portugueze have no other idea. We are now a long time without News from England, which might probably throw some light on our future Operations. Indeed it is said that till Lord Wellington receives his next dispatches he is himself ignorant as to our remaining or otherwise in the country.

  While writing the above the Route arrived. We march to-morrow morning for Abrantes, at which place we are to arrive on the 25th Inst. or Christmas Day. It is supposed on our arrival at Abrantes that we shall receive a further route.

  17th. At twelve o'clock this day we bade adieu to Olivenza, and reached our resting place, Jerumenha, about three. It is a small village prettily situated on a high Hill, but affording very bad accommodation. Soon after our commencing our March the Rain set in, and we arrived at our Billets well drenched. Jerumenha is remarkable for having stood a long Siege under Marshall Schomberg, and again in the last War between the Spaniards and Portugueze. Distant from Olivenza two Leagues.

  18th. Our march to-day was to Villa Vicosa about three Leagues or twelve Miles. We were again considerably annoyed by the wet. Villa Vicosa is one of the cleanest and neatest Towns in Portugal. It is a Royal Residence, and has attached to it a very extensive Park well stocked with Deer, where the Prince Regent was frequently accustomed formerly to hunt.

  19th. We this day marched into Estremos, twelve miles from Villa Vicosa. This place I passed through on my way from Lisbon to Elvas, and was much pleased with its cleanliness over the other Towns I had observed in Portugal. The difficulty in procuring Billets was very great. The Juez de Foro or Chief Magistrate was a very good natured old man, but appeared to know very little of the Duty attached to his Situation. All the Billets he gave me proved of no use, and being at length apprehensive of getting no place for myself or Horses I remembered my good Friends at the Inn, who had treated me very well on my passing thro' this place before. On entering the House I was immediately recognised by all the Daughters, four in number, and received with a most hearty welcome, accompanied with the warmest Congratulations on my having quitted Spain in safety, a circumstance in the opinion of a Portugueze highly worthy of thanksgiving.

  20th. We halted this Day at Estremos. In the course of the Day newspapers to the 29th Ulto. arrived. They state ten thousand men being about to embark for this Country,which has been confirmed by Letters received by different Officers. This renders it probable that the defence of this Country is certainly to be attempted.

  21st. This Morning I bade adieu to my fair Hostesses at Estremos, who gave me their best wishes for my future welfare and assurance of the best reception if I should ever again travel this Road. I had been two Days and Nights in this Inn during which time I had a Fire constantly in my Room. They provided me with an excellent Bed and good Breakfasts, also Beds for my Servants and Stabling for my Horses. On going away I demanded my Bill and to my Astonishment found all the above comforts were provided for the moderate charge of four shillings and sixpence sterling.

  Our march this day was to a miserable place called Cano, twelve Miles from Estremos. The Inhabitants are all poor, and the place furnishes nothing worthy of observation, excepting the extreme beauty with which the Olive Groves in the Neighbourhood are laid out.

  22nd. I was this Day detained at Cano several hours after the Regiment in procuring a Car for the conveyance of some Sick; the Juez de Foro not being able to write or read was obliged to issue his orders verbally, which appeared to me to be very little regarded, and in consequence a considerable delay took place. While the old Gentleman was busy searching for the Car, I amused myself in conversing with his Daughter, a really pretty Girl, but as ignorant of everything not actually passing under her observation as a young savage in the wilds of America. She overwhelmed me with Questions as to the Modes and Customs of the English, and was particularly inquisitive as to the Ceremony of Matrimony. She had been taught to believe that an Englishman was by no means limited in the number of his Wives.

  The Regiment halted this day at Avis, a dirty town, but well known for the Richness of its Convent. We were all quartered in this Building,which is certainly superior to anything of the kind I have before witnessed. The Rooms of the Friars, instead of being Cells (as they are generally termed), are extremely well furnished, and have an elegance and neatness about them scarcely observable in the private Houses of the richest Inhabitants. Notwithstanding these People plead poverty.

  Here we learned that on our arrival at Abrantes we should receive a further Route to Coimbra, a distance of about ninety miles.

  24th. We did not quit Avis till this morning, and our resting place to-night is at Ponte del Sor, a miserable Village affording nothing worthy of observation.

  27th. We reached Abrantes on the 25th, and halted there that and the succeeding Day. It is a populous town, standing extremely high and capable of being very strongly fortified. Like most other Towns in this Country it is intolerably filthy, and on walking thro' it I felt much pleased that we were not to remain there. The Dukedom was bestowed by Buonoparté upon Junot, in consequence of its possessing some rich domains, and I have no doubt His Grace on his return here will make up his long arrears with considerable interest. The Tagus runs at the bottom of the Hill on which the town stands. We crossed it by a Bridge of Boats, which might be almost instantly destroyed in case of necessity.

  Our march this Day was to a small Village called Puenhete, standing also on the Banks of the River. The Day being beautiful and the Prospects fairer than anything I had before seen in Portugal rendered this Morning's travelling extremely pleasant. After our arrival here, having taken some refreshment, I ascended to a great eminence for the purpose of seeing a Convent, which however contained nothing remarkable. The scenery however from this height was finer than anything I ever saw, and were I compelled to live in Portugal I should doubtless choose this Situation; the extent of view from it is immense; on every side were to be seen extensive Olive Groves, and on the slopes of the Hills near the Tagus a variety of neat houses were interspersed. The serpentine course of the River in this neighbourhood adds much to the beauty of the Prospect. I was much fascinated with this scene, and I wished ardently for the power my sweet friend, C. M., possesses with her Pencil, that I might have taken a sketch of it.

  30th. On the 28th we quitted Puenhete, and marched to Thomar, a considerable Town and Head-Quarters for the Portugueze Troops. Marshal Beresford is at present there. We had an opportunity of seeing one of the Regiments at Parade which have been drilled by English Officers. They were well clothed and made an excellent appearance. The Soldier-like Manner in which they went through their Evolutions astonished the English Officers. I should really expect much from them if opposed to the Enemy.

  Our Commanding Officer was informed by Genl. Beresford that our march would not terminate at Coimbra. Guarda a town near the Frontiers is said to be our destination. The last week has been remarkably fine, which at this time of the Year we may consider a piece of singular good fortune.

  Yesterday we halted at a small village called Aldeacruz, but affording an excellent Market and at a much cheaper rate than any other place we had been at in Portugal. We reached our present halting place (Leyria) this Afternoon where we are to remain to-morrow. Our Route this Day lay through a variety of Fir Groves, which for their extent and beauty are said to be unequalled.

  1810

  JANUARY

  Jan. 6th. We remained at Leyria on the 31st. The Town is old, and affords little worthy of note. On an Eminence near it stands a Ruin, which has long been considered as extremely fine. It was formerly a Moorish Castle of great strength. The Chapel still remains entire, but~has not been used as a place of worship for some time. When the French were at Leyria, some Monks made resistance, and three of them were shot in the Chapel.

  On New Year's Day we quitted Leyria, and marched to Pombal, a small Town, but known in
History as having given a title to the most Eminent Minister that Portugal ever possessed. In a Convent there we saw a Coffin containing the remains of the celebrated Marquis, which, I know not for what reason, have never been interred. In the same Chapel was pointed out to us by the Friar who conducted us an Image of the Virgin, which he said had been put into a Fire of great heat but could not be consumed. The Image was of common Wood. Near it was a Record of various Miracles which had been performed thro' her intercession. We did not appear to doubt his Narratives, and I fancy he quitted us laughing up his sleeve at our apparent folly.

  On the 2nd. we marched to a small place called Condixe, which afforded a good Market and better accommodation than the exterior appearance of the Houses at first led us to expect. I do not know that the People as we go Northward are poorer than those of the South, but Shoes and Stockings are not to be seen amongst the lower Orders of Females since we quitted Leyria. The Men go well shod, with Stockings.

  On the 3rd. we reached Coimbra, the largest City in Portugal, with the exception of Lisbon and Oporto. It is the only University in the Kingdom, and appears to be at present thronged with Students. They are formed into a Corps, and many amongst them formerly distinguished themselves against the Enemy. These are distinguished by a Medal and Ribband. The common dress of the Students is a black Gown of Cloth over their common Dress, which is also all black. The Cap is likewise sable, and similar in shape to a double Night Cap.

  This Town affords a great deal worthy of the attention of a Traveller. The Colleges, Convents, &c. &c. are very fine. There is also a Museum here which is said to contain a very rare collection of Natural Curiosities. Unfortunately my Time there was so fully occupied by Duty that I was not able to visit any of the Curiosities. My Billet there was excellent, and my Bed had so inviting an appearance, that I half feared getting into it from an anticipation of the contrast I should experience before reaching the end of my Journey. Here we were made acquainted with our destination, which is a small Town eighteen leagues from here called Celorico. The whole Army are to be in Cantonments, at such distances as to be easily brought together in case of necessity. It would appear that Lord Wellington has no immediate expectation of a Visit from the Enemy, as he purposes going to Lisbon, as the Army are settled in their new Quarters. The Morning we quitted Coimbra I saw him in his full dress uniform as Captain General of Portugal, accompanied by Marshal Beresford and a numerous Staff, going to review some Portugueze Regiments The inhabitants were running out in crowds in [order] to see him; indeed he is perfectly idolized by the Portugueze nation. On this day he purposed quitting Coimbra for Viseu which is to be Head-Quarters. I am informed by an Officer who dined with him at Coimbra, that he never saw him in such spirits. He has however at present a most serious responsibility upon him.